Gathering Flat Lace for Application

In the name of full disclosure, let me begin by saying that this is only one of several ways that I gather flat lace for application.  It is not my most frequently used method due to the time and effort involved.  That being said, it is for me the most appropriate and accurate method when I am using antique or very expensive lace and fabric.  This is what I call “The Overachiever Method.”  I learned this from one of my teachers at the RSN who did a significant share of the christening gown restoration in the Studio there.  She often had to work with whatever could be salvaged of the original lace, and could not afford waste caused by shifting lace.

Note:   I always do this technique on a lace shaping board, but for visibility, I photographed these pictures on a black vinyl mat--and not very well at that! 

1.       Determine the length of lace you require for the fullness you desire.  This is strictly a personal decision.  There are no hard and fast rules.  To this amount, add seam allowance AND  1” extra on each end.

2.       As illustrated below, withdraw about 1” of the top two (2) threads from the heading of the lace and tie them together in a strong knot. Repeat this step on the other end.  This is why you allowed the two extra inches.

3.       Divide the length of lace between knots into fourths and mark with a wash away marker. (You will also divide and mark the edge to which the lace will be applied.)

 

 

4.       Insert easily visible straight pins at each knot and each marking.  The pins should be perpendicular to the lace heading.  Also insert a pin at the midpoint of each fourth.  It is helpful to use pins with different types of heads for the fourth markings and midpoint markings.

 

5.       Beginning at the midpoint of each section, withdraw the top two threads of the lace heading to gather the lace.  This will create a loop that enables you to pull the header threads in both directions.  I have used clear cellophane tape to “tame” the lace as I work with it.  Take care to distribute some of the gathers close to the midpoint pin, as this small space tends to lie flat.  The reason for withdrawing two threads is that by doing so you create greater friction between the heading threads and reduce slipping and sliding.  Sorry, I was a physics teacher after all.

 

 

 

6.       Once the flat lace between the one-fourth markings measures one-fourth the final application length required, secure the loop of heading threads around the midpoint pin with a figure-of-eight motion.  Move to the next section and repeat the above steps.

 

7.       Although somewhat awkward, I leave all pins in the lace until it is applied to the edge of my fabric or other trim.  The pins make really good landmarks as you hand or machine sew.  Of course, it goes without saying that you should take every precaution not to sew over the pins.  This seemed like a great deal of work the first time I saw it, but I have come to appreciate the way it minimizes the shifting of the lace as it is applied.  As I said in the beginning, I do not use this all the time, but when I want accuracy and economy it is my go to technique.